For the true coffee lover, espresso is much more than just ground coffee beans mixed with hot water. I asked Stuart Lierich, manager of San Remo Gourmet Coffee in Moonee Ponds, to explain what makes a good espresso.

When a group of prominent historians are challenged by the Victorian Premier to nominate the most significant events in this state’s history and unanimously include the introduction of the espresso machine, you get some idea as to what coffee means to many Victorians.

Coffee is now as much a part of our culture as football, meat pies, kangaroos and... well you know how the rest goes.

But what is it about espresso coffee particularly which invokes such passion amongst its drinkers?

The literal meaning of the word espresso is ‘made on the spur of the moment’, a definition which belies the intrinsic nature of coffee making.

Stuart Lierich, manager of San Remo Gourmet Coffee in Moonee Ponds, is one who has indulged in his fair share of coffee. He believes that while creating the perfect espresso is a challenge to which most coffee lovers aspire, few succeed. This is because there are many factors that can influence the quality of the final brew.

Whether at the cafe or at home, the roasting process is an important variable when it comes to preparing the perfect cup of coffee.

In his experience, Stuart has found that once roasted, coffee will not keep for long, even with the advent of sophisticated packaging.

“For quality the emphasis would be to purchase coffee as fresh as possible and not to buy too much at the one time. Coffee roasting is a process of pyrolysis which increases the temperature of the coffee bean (which begins life as a cherry on a coffee tree) from room temperature to 200-230 degrees, ideally within the space of 10-15 minutes. The main physical changes that occur to the coffee bean are: a loss of weight; a gain in size; and a distinct change of colour from green to brown. It is from this process that the complex flavours and aromas of the coffee are developed.”

While technological developments to the espresso machine have made it easier, and in some cases quicker, to make coffee, Stuart believes the quality will still be dependent on the skill of the operators, or as the industry refers to them - ‘baristas’.

“An espresso machine in fact makes coffee by passing water speedily through ground coffee, under pressure.

“However, to make a good espresso coffee takes more than just a good machine. In creating an espresso blend of coffee one has several aims concerning the desire for flavour and aroma. Flavour must be above all balanced and harmonious; sweetness is prized above all, the balance between bitterness and acidity must be adjusted to suit the majority of consumers. Attention should also be paid to the body of the blend; full bodied coffee is the measure of a good blend and correct preparation. The operator will have a lot to do with all these factors.”

So while the short black may not be voluminous, there is certainly a lot which goes into it, and that is what inspires passion from its drinkers. As Stuart succinctly puts it: “It may be a long journey from the coffee bean’s country of origin to the coffee cup, but it’s a journey that provides for one of life’s real pleasures.”